A Cliff Dwelling Road Trip in New Mexico, Colorado
Bandelier and Mesa Verde
I love art. I love history. I love cultural sites. I love the outdoors. I love to explore. I love a good road trip. I love spending time with a great friend.
As Spring began to shine along the Colorado Front Range, the snow was melting and there was an itch to get out and hike. Many of the high mountain trail still had snow though, and what I realized I was in need of was a trip to refill my soul. I needed to recharge. I needed to see if where I was at this particular time in life was where I needed to be. Sometimes, even if things seem great and on track, I still yearn for what is on the horizon.
I had met a friend that seemed to be coming from a place that was similar to mine. Our stories weren’t the same, but our paths had crossed, and our trajectories seemed to intertwine. We both seemed to need something to cleanse our souls. I had heard the term vision quest; it is also the name of a good movie from the eighties if you can find it. Our vision quest would bring us through Santa Fe to Durango and back.
Spring was supposed to be here, but as we left Denver the snow came down. It snowed for the entire 6-hour drive to Santa Fe. As the last snow fell along the Front Range, over passes, and painted the desert landscape for the last time of the year, we shared stories of the past. We shared our heart breaks, our struggles, hopes and dreams. Spring was in the car. There was a transformation happening, we were on a journey, an unknowing vision quest for peace. The snow fell like the words … letting go before the sun could shine its warmth across the land, our souls.
Santa Fe, New Mexico
What a town … we pulled into town and right into people lining the street with signs protesting the government. Keep your hands off of our parks! Keep your hands off of our bodies! The government is the people … read the constitution! There was a spirit in the city that just boomed. People cared. A spirit jumped across the sky framed by the tan adobe building that make up this part of New Mexico.
It’s an artist town. The galleries, architecture, food, and people meshed in a creativity and a way that I’ve never seen before. Maybe this was my place? Maybe this could be my home?
A day of art was in order. Meow Wolf is an interactive art exhibit, there is one in Denver that has its own personality. This one told a story that matched the state’s tales of UFOs in Roswell, NM. The Georgia O’Keefe Museum told a story of one of Santa Fe’s original artists and it shouldn’t be missed. The galleries that wrapped through the historic downtown reminded me of Royal Street in the French Quarter of New Orleans. Art and the creativity that pours from it just opens your mind to the possibilities.
Bandelier National Monument
Every American should visit out National Parks and National Monuments. It’s just my opinion, but these places are what makes American great. I love small town America. I love what big cities have to offer. But these places have been set aside and preserved because they are special. Bandelier National Monument is no different.
As we drove, climbing up into the high desert and across the mesas we turned into the park. It doesn’t become obvious until you round a curve and see the deep canyons that hide the park and what it has to offer. This monument lets you see cliff dwelling and petroglyphs from the Native Americans that lived there. Standing at a pull out overlooking the canyons surrounded by Juniper Trees and cactus it was as if I belonged there. Two birds soared on the currents of air … it was fitting.
We walked the trails, climbed ladders into the cliff dwelling, and had some interesting conversations with a few rangers and volunteers. They showed us the different plants and told us about the fires of years past. “If you wait a few minutes the sun will hit the rocks walls and light up the petroglyphs that we couldn’t yet see.” They were stunning.
We asked how the cuts to funding were affecting the park. “Not yet,” but you could sense their worry, not for their jobs, but the park itself. Their care and worry were genuine. This became a common theme. “How do you just talk to people,” my friend asked. Kindness and curiosity are always met with kindness and curiosity in return … I think that is what our friendship was built on. My soul was regenerating, and a vision was starting to form.
We finished out trip to Bandelier with a hike down Falls Trail, it was mostly uphill on the way back. The trail winder through a beautiful canyon crossing the small creek twice. The trail stopped with a barricade placed by the park service, a bit of a bummer as we could see the Rio Grande River just a short walk away. If there was true disappointment it dissipated in an instant as I turned and the immensity of the canyon set in with what seemed like thousand-foot cliffs and Upper Frijoles Falls. Don’t miss out of this short but spectacular hike … and bring water.
A Quick Note: We traveled early season and some of the cliff dwellings were closed as trails were still being cleared from a recent flood. Enjoy what is available and know that parks often have closure due to fire, floods, lack of funding to protect resources, and many other things that are out of our control as visitors,
On To Durango
A long drive can be miserable or a joy. Maybe it’s a silent drive, maybe one filled with conversation. One might enjoy the views or be bored with the scenery. Boredom or excitement. A lot of what made this road trip a joy was the shared experience of great conversation, loving the high desert scenery, and excitement for what was around the next corner.
Through Native American Reservations, sovereign lands, and small mountain towns like Pagosa Spring, we eventually arrived in Durango. Durango is a town founded on the silver boom that failed once the US decided to back its currency with only gold and not both. Now it is known as a claim as the mountain biking capital of the US, a gateway to the National Parks of the Southwest, and a gateway to the ski towns Silverton and Ouray. To the North sits the majestic San Juan Mountains and Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. To the West is Mesa Verde National Park, Monument Valley, and Southern Utah’s many National Parks.
History abounds in Durango. The Durango and Silverton Railroad offers a unique glimpse into the past. We stayed at the Strater Hotel where famed author Louie Lamour wrote many of his books. Don’t miss the Diamond Belle Saloon on the corner of the Strater and make sure to stroll up and down Main Avenue stopping at many gems like the 11th Street Station’s many food trucks or the Blue Rain Gallery, which is worthy of a modern museum status. A charming town that I thought might be a wonderful place to call home one day.
Mesa Verde Nation Park
Mesa Verde National Park was a short drive from Durango … a great day trip. The drive seemed short up Hwy 160, aka the Navajo Trail. The snow-covered peaks of San Juans and even closer Hesperus Mountain contrasted with the red sandstone, green pines, sage colored grasses, the brown scrub brushes, and blue skies. White clouds dotted the sky under a warming sun.
As we pulled off of the main road and past the entrance sign, stopping only long enough to show our annual park pass, my excitement grew. I have a vision of visiting all of our National Parks and as many monuments as I can. If you have never visited one of our National Parks, you just can’t imagine what they offer. Each one is unique. Each one has its own personality. We pulled into the main visitors’ center. Yes, we need a bathroom break, but what you will find at these visitors’ centers is a wealth of information that will help you start to understand the journey ahead.
We stood behind a small child who asked one of the park rangers for a guide, they always have things for kids. The ranger was great in his interaction … it’s great that the park service has educational rangers. Children are the future of conservators of our public lands and parks, and the park service is definitely forward thinking in this regard.
As we walked through the exhibits, I looked through one of the three small windows pointing out that the large looking bookcases actually pulled out and stored pottery and artifacts. “Do you have any question?” I turned and a woman introduced herself at the museum curator. I told her that I was pointing out the pottery collection and then asked about the artwork on different pottery and when artwork began, separating a time of basic functionality to one that introduced the importance of culture. I learned in an archeology course in college that art and the importance of beauty, storytelling, and communication were the signs of advanced societies. We got a great 15-minute private class about the pottery, art, and culture of the people who once made Mesa Verde their home.
Once again, I asked if the government cutbacks were affecting the park. Another temped response of, “Not Yet.” The staff still showed a sense of worry and at the same time seemed caution in speaking about the issues in front of them. We should all speak out for the protection of our parks to ensure that they are there for future generations.
We drove up the mesas and cuestas, up and up until deep canyons revealed themselves. Stopping for picture and just to take on views, we glimpsed several wild horses and deer. Wild horses are not natural to North American being brought in by the Spanish in the 17th century. A park ranger that we spoke with at the Chapin Mesa Archaeological Museum told us that the horses would be removed to protect the native species of plants and animals.
We hiked the less than 3-mile Petroglyph Point Trail which involves much scrambling and steep drop offs and eventually returns across the top of a mesa over Spruce Tree House. Don’t underestimate the short by miles trail as it is strenuous and involves using handholds and route finding in many places. The end of the trail brings you to the petroglyphs … we stayed for quite a bit taking pictures and looking at the stories left by an ancient people. Climbing out of the Canyon we stood amongst a Juniper lined florist with small beds of wildflowers. The gentle trail was a nice change and as it turned back towards the museum, visitors center, and parking lot there were stunning view of the Spruce Tree House cliff dwellings.
We hiked a few other short trails through the park as we made our way out. Cliff Palace and Balcony House were a few of the overlooks and trails that we passed. We hiked the Balcony House Overlook and Soda Canyon Overlook trail, finding a bench to sit on and just take in the views. Going to these places early in the season gives you some solitude. The peace of just sitting there and being in the moment is something that shouldn’t be passed. Too often these trips such a rush, trying to see so much and never really being able to appreciate and enjoy what is before you.
A Quick Note: Many of the cliff dwellings are only accessible by guided ranger tours that require reservations. Traveling in early season means that many of these places are not open until May. Please check the park web site for details if this is a priority for you. Mesa Verde is also one of the most restricted of our parks. There are more than 6,000 archeological sites that require protection and thus as inaccessible, so no backcountry hikes or camping. This is also a high desert environment, so bring plenty of water.
They Way Home
Before leaving Durango, we stopped by Bread. A slightly hidden gem with great pastries, sandwiches, and of course bread. We stopped by Pagosa Springs for a bit scouting out a future trip … hot springs, fly fishing, and skiing nearby are just a few of the offering that this town has to offer. This is another great Colorado mountain town not to be missed.
We drove over Wolf Creek Pass stopping at Treasure Falls and on through Rio Grande National Forest. The conversations slowed, taking in the scenery and reflecting on the too short trip. At Pocha Springs we picked up Hwy. 285 back toward Denver. Pulling into a river access area along the Arkansas River we grabbed to snacks for a quick picnic. Several 14ers sat at our backs … Mt. Shavano, Mt. Antero, Mt. Princeton are all goals for the summer.
We struck up a conversation with a Colorado Fish and Wildlife Conservation Officer. She explained her job and gave us great information about the Arkansas River, some climbing areas in the region, and wildlife in the area. During the conversation, I asked again how the government cuts would affect her department’s jobs. As a state agency they are nor directly impacted by the cuts. The officer also explained that the state agency was picking up some of the slack from federal agencies like the national forest service which are affected by the government cuts … buying toilet paper (government agency cards were capped at $1 for purchases), trail maintenances, and law enforcement duties. Volunteer work will be needed to help cover shortfalls.
Antelope and elk were some sightings on the way back home. In reflection, coming home is never easy. We explore and travel for joy, but also to unwind the tension in our nervous systems … something that nature, friendship, and new experiences offer. Plan your next journey, plan your own expedition.
Photos By Shari Pederson
